Stage Three - Mexico City, Mexico to San Jose, Costa Rica
April 25, 1996 - May 22, 1996
Date: April 25 - 27, 1996 (Mexico City)
We flew into Mexico City via Houston. As we flew over the city, I could remember the night in January when we left this city surrounded by mountains. The night sky was clear and we could see the lights of the 20 million people packed into this valley. It was an incredible sight - how can all those people live in that space? I was soon to realize how as Carlos (Troy's dad) picked us up and headed into the traffic.
Mexico City is a city suffering from extreme grid lock. I have never been to Tokyo or Sao Paulo, Brazil, but I imagine this mass of vehicles and people ranks up near the top. No wonder my car insurance company would not provide coverage in Mexico City.
We stayed at the Fiesta Americana in downtown. A friend of the Amezcuas got us an excellent rate for this five star hotel. Friday was spent getting the VW reorganized and packed for the next leg of our journey. The bellman and doorman of the hotel were very intrigued by our preparations and walked over to chat several times.
On Friday night we went out with Troy and Denise to a restaurant in La Zona Rosa (The Pink Zone). This is a trendy area where wealthy Mexicans and tourists shop, eat and party. We just ate. Chad had a good time as they had a TV with the NBA playoffs going. Our dinner with Troy and Denise was enjoyable but too short. We talked about "old camp days" as Troy was a camper and staff at HOC for eight years.
On Saturday we headed out for Oaxaca. Finally on our way, we had to battle the Mexico City traffic one more time. It took us two hours to cross the city and start our journey again.
Date: April 27 - 28, 1996 (Oaxaca)
The city of Oaxaca is a popular tourist area with many interesting side trips. Chad and I arrived about 8:30 PM in the rain. We stayed at the Oaxaca Trailer Park located in the city. This walled in park is the one most recommended - but still in poor condition which means only 1/2 the things advertised work. Still it was safe and ideally located.
We left the next morning for the Zapatec ruins of Monte Alban. This is one of my favorite sites as Kathy and I had been there before. Located on a mountain (Monte) this religious and cultural center had all of its original buildings plastered in white (Alban). The main square, ball court and center court yard are architectural marvels. Our guide, Netzahualcoyotl Anolmec, told us how the ruins had been rebuilt four times. Each time making it larger and more impressive. Looking out over the valleys below, I could imagine the people 2000 years before gathering on this scared site.
This was Chad's first exposure to an ancient archeological site. He did enjoy it, asked questions and took lots of pictures with his digital camera. He put together a travel log and sent pictures and text to his class in Burk's Falls, Ontario. He also decided to do a classroom essay on the ruins. He will present this to his class when he returns.
By mid afternoon we had experienced enough of Monte Alban (and also the heat). We made a decision to hit the road and drive to Huatulco on the Pacific Coast. Only 240 km. (145 miles) it seemed like the thing to do. Several hours later with my back and neck as sore as they have ever been - we made it.
Let me quote you from the People's Guide to RV Camping in Mexico " This route ascends from humid, tropical tierra caliente (hot country), through banana and coffee plantations, past tree ferns, waterfalls, and near-vertical cornfields, to moss draped forests of pine and oak at about 10,000 ft. We once drove this so-called highway in a VW van, but it took two full and very tiring days. Don't attempt this road unless you're looking for an adventure."
I want to say this is the road from hell but I know we have many more miles to go. This winding, hairpin filled road traverses the top of the Sierra de Juarez Mountain. Several times we drove in and out of the clouds. In one spot we came upon a serious truck accident that had traffic backed up. There were mangos and papayas all over the place. I'm not sure the driver made it.
Date: April 29 - May 2, 1996 (Huatulco)
The Bahias de Huatulco is Mexico's newest resort development. Bahias means bays in Spanish and there are numerous beautiful bays in this location. Chad and I did three serious days of laying out in the sun by the pool. We stayed at a Sheraton Hotel. The bay we stayed in also had a Club Med and Royal Maeva Resort. Temperatures were in the low 90's (32 - 34 degrees Celsius). The pool water was like a warm Jacuzzi. May is a very quiet month for resorts in Mexico. We had our run of the place. The phones in the rooms also allowed us to dial direct. Chad sent travel logs and I sent numerous e-mail messages to friends. We were not sure when we would be able to direct dial again.
We left on May 2nd and headed towards Tapacula. This town is the border town between Mexico and Guatemala. We noted several Army units along the way, this is the Mexican state of Chiapas where a peasant revolt had erupted recently. Negotiations were taking place but things were still a little tense.
The biggest change for us was the change in climate as we neared Tapacula. Our first five hours of travel took us through some extremely arid countryside. We got gas and the attendant said it was 38 degrees which is about 105 degrees Fahrenheit. It was hot!
As we headed due south the countryside turned greener. By the time we hit Tapacula it was lush with bananas and palm trees everywhere. It felt like the tropics.
Date: May 3 -6, 1996 (The Guatemalan Border)
I'll start by saying I hope our first border crossing will be one of our worst. I had high hopes of moderate frustration and minimal time wasted. Wrong on both counts! Upon arriving at 10:00 in the morning I was told I needed something stamped. Not knowing completely what the guard was telling me or how I could get it fixed - I looked around there was Julio.
Back we went to Tapacula (10 miles) to the Banjercito (Army Bank). They stamped our auto permit and back we went to the border (1 1/2 hours lost). Julio spoke broken English and told me he lived in Houston for six years as child and had a wife who studied the bible. The service he was providing me was what he did for a living. I won't say how much he and Jorge, his partner, on the Guatemalan side charged us. Just say it was a moderate to large rip off.
Jorge (Julio's partner on the Guatemalan side began his work. He actually had a business card and called himself a Tramitado el Peludo. He paid off the attendants at the bridge, he got out tourist visas, our 30 day vehicle permit, fumigation arrangements and quarantine permit (don't ask what for). All in all every imaginable person had his or her hand out. To wrap it up - the final guard who checked over our papers and looked very concerned about something - needed a few Quetzals (Guatemalan currency) to be swayed. Total time lost three hours - total cost - too much!
Guatemala - The Road to Panahachel (Lake Attitlan)
I wasn't driving ten minutes and I felt good about being back in Guatemala. The natives are the most colorful and beautiful people I've had the chance to experience.
We headed directly into the mountains. The climb was very difficult on the VW. It almost felt like the beginning of transmission problems. The road to San Marcos took us over a 12,000 ft mountain. At times it felt like we were going straight up. The road side was covered with lush tropical forest and rows of coffee trees. We stopped and enjoyed the panoramic views.
Road signs and direction signs in cities are non existent in Guatemala. You have to drive by feeling your way and watching your compass and always asking directions to the next city. The roads are not like ones most people have ever experienced. Cobblestone with large potholes and broken asphalt are the most descriptive terms to describe driving through the cities in the Guatemalan Highlands. Often we found ourselves going down the wrong way on a one way street (no signs evident anywhere). A trick I finally picked up on was to look for tire marks on the road. This usually meant it was the right way through town. People were good about waving their hands when you were going in the wrong direction on a one way street.
One of the most vivid memories of this trip will be the brilliant colors of the clothes these people living in the mountains. I will never forget the striking colors that are woven into the women's clothing. Their tops are embroidered with colored patterns and bright flowers. Short in stature and deep brown in color the Guatemalan people are very cautious by nature. They do not like having their picture taken. The children would let you take pictures but sometimes ask for a Quetzal in return.
Panahachel - Lake Attilan
Chad and I arrived at Lake Attilan in late afternoon. This lake is surrounded by three volcanoes and the town of Panahachel serves as the main tourist destination. Truly beautiful this is one of my must see recommendations for people who want to enjoy one of the natural wonders of the world. The views are magnificent. The boat trips around the lake take you back in time. Little villages that time has not changed dot this tranquil setting. Again the colors of the peoples clothing and the beautiful flowers and plants make this area truly striking. When we left I took the road around the south side of the lake. A little treacherous in spots but truly fantastic views. When I stopped to take pictures, I could hear the noise of the hoes as the men worked the hillside planting their new crop of maize (corn). No machinery in this part of the world.
We drove through the mountains towards the lower coastal plains of Guatemala. The VW appreciated the change in altitude plus the distance we could travel in one day was greatly increased. We needed to make some time as we had spent an extra day in Panahachel
The road was good and filled with trucks. Guatemala's largest sugar cane processing plant was in this area and trucks that were over loaded with sugar cane were everywhere. They were so full with product that they could barely make it up the hills. Chad was navigating with the Sanborns travel log. He noted to me that this areas had been reported to have bandits stopping travelers. Fortunately, not for us.
Date: May 7 - 8, 1996 (El Salvador)
I won't bore you with details of the borders until I get to the Honduras section. Let it suffice to be said - borders will be one of the most difficult parts of this trek. We crossed into Salvador and began our tour along the Pacific Coast.
We chose this route because I wanted to miss the big cities. We had already missed Guatemala City and now would miss San Salvador (the capital of El Salvador). The route was good and we enjoyed some nice ocean views. A number of the coves along the coast were in the first stages of tourist development. Lots of crews working on the roads and travel in general very good. I've got to mention the colorful buses that seem to be everywhere. The paint jobs were outstanding with each bus trying to outdo the other. Very colorful and enjoyable to see.
We traveled to San Migual which is located in the southern part of El Salvador. This was a landmark for me because we were now further south than I had ever been. Kathy and I had once been to Playa Cuco in El Salvador. San Miguel is further south. Chad was extremely happy because they had a Wendys restaurant near our hotel. The temperature was very hot here and the late afternoon rains helped cool things off. The landscape was moderately tropical with extinct volcanoes lining our route. Salvador seems much more developed since my last visit (1978).
Date: May 8, 1996 (Honduras)
Honduras - The border crossing to end all border crossings! (maybe?)
We got up early to put in as many miles in as we could. I realized that we would be traveling in three countries that day and wanted to tackle those borders. About 3 miles from the border of Honduras we were flagged down at a stop sign. This border agent was a real entrepreneur. Against all the travel books advice, I picked him up and headed to the border. I think he now wishes we hadn't picked him up.
The border was packed with trucks, people, border rates and customs officials. My guy negotiated us to the front of the line. He told me his fees would be only 5 Colons (about 50 cents). I knew he would try to finagle more so I went from station to station with him. I paid the bills and he kept things moving - that is until the quarantine station. The officials there began to tell me my border rat/agent was bad and would take my money. I said no problems - but my border guy took offense. He said something to the official and the fireworks began. The official chased my guy out the door, grabbed him and landed a serious right on his chin. My guy (I'm sorry I didn't get his name), staggered back. Soon other people began to yell and shout at the officials. The police showed up and other border rats rallied behind my guy. I was beginning to wonder if I would be asked to be a material witness or have my papers delayed for a long time.
I'll give my guy credit - he finished the job, sore jaw and all. I continued to pay the bills and when it was all done I gave him an extra five colons. Yes, it only cost me 1 dollar for his service. It cost him a sore jaw and damaged pride. He could not ask me for more since he told those officials he was honest. Sweet revenge. I won this border - but knew my luck wouldn't last for long!!
Our trip through Honduras went quickly. Actually we drove across the country in 3 hours. The terrain was rolling hills with one small mountain to cross. The first section of road was dotted with numerous pot holes. The lost time at our last border would cost us time soon. We made it to the border of Nicaragua at 12:15. Yes, it was lunch time and the Nicaraguans were enjoying their lunch break. It's hard to believe that an international border would be closed over lunch, but its true. I had fun talking with children who were fascinated with our van. I found some pens and other trinkets to hand out. Everyone lined up for a picture before we left.
Date: May 9, 1996 (Nicaragua)
My hopes that I was beginning to learn the ropes at the border were soon dashed. The Nicaraguans were not a friendly bunch. Everyone wanted US dollars. The visa and police officials would not accept their own currency. Yes that's true. I had no US dollars only travel checks. My mistake as there were no money changers on the Nicaragua side. Nobody wanted the Nicaragua Cordobas. Back over to the Honduras side to try to find some US dollars. We did find some but it cost me a premium. It was difficult paying off the National Police guy who was twice my weight and didn't look like he could protect anyone.
The people in Nicaragua were visibly poorer. Many people were selling what ever they could to be able to feed themselves. We came across a man selling Armadillos and Parakeets, quite an unusual combination. The Nicaraguan roads were similar to Honduras but the country side was much greener. We pulled into Managua about 7:00 PM. Using our travel book we attempted to try and find a hotel in the city. The people were friendly in the countryside but driving in Managua was not fun. With no road or street signs and numerous cars honking at us we turned back to the airport and grabbed the last room at the Mercedes Hotel. Usually when you think of Mercedes you think of quality - definitely not this hotel. It may have been one of Managua's nicer hotels, but not on my list of recommended places to stay.
In the morning we headed back North and took a route which would allow us to avoid driving through downtown Managua. Without road signs it would have been difficult. As we skirted the city I saw my first active volcano. Spewing clouds of smoke it was an impressive site. Everyone along the road didn't seem to notice the activity. I took some pictures and headed towards Costa Rica.
Date: May 10 - 13, 1996 (Costa Rica)
Everyone you talk to at the borders in Central America assumes you are heading to Costa Rica. They ask you where you are going but before you answer they are already nodding their head. Almost as if they were approving of your choice of destinations. We soon found out why as the border was a simple affair which I easily accomplished myself. All the forms and paper work were completed in one neat area.
We headed towards San Jose through the lush tropical countryside. The roads along the Pan American Highway were good but I never let down my guard. As I was to find out in my travels around the county, some of the roads here were as bad as any we had traveled on in Central America. With Chad doing a good job navigating, we made it to San Jose in five hours. Our destination was the Holiday Inn in the downtown area.
San Jose is a busy city with lots of cars, taxis and buses. It felt like the pollution was above average but certainly not in the same ball park as Mexico City. There are many US franchise restaurants around so Chad was happy about that. This combined with many TV channels in our hotel made his stay in San Jose very enjoyable. The fact that the NBA playoffs were taking place was a factor in his desire to watch TV.
The VW needed some work (oil, lube, etc.) and I hoped this would be a good location to get some service done. I noticed that there were very few other VW's on the road. VW service centers were limited and as it proved to be - so was the quality of the service. I took the van in on a Friday (7:30 am) and picked it up at 5:00 PM that night. The service manager told me it didn't get completed and I should bring it back on Monday morning. After much questioning I found out they didn't even look at the van the whole day!
When I took it in on Monday morning I waited around to see the mechanic start working on it. I asked if he could disconnect the running lights (these are the head lights that come on automatically when you start your car) that were driving other people crazy. All through Mexico and Central America other cars and pedestrians were signaling us to turn our lights off. Unfortunately, we couldn't so getting this safety feature disconnected was a relief.
Kathy's arrival - May 11, 1996
On Saturday night we picked up Kathy (my wife) at the airport. Both Chad and I were glad to see her. Our plan was to travel to the Arenal Volcano and spend the night as close as we could to this active volcano. We would return to San Jose and Chad would fly home by himself (San Jose, Houston, Newark, Toronto). Kathy and I would then set off to explore the various regions of Costa Rica.
Mothers Day, May 12, 1996
Chad and I had bought Kathy a Mother's Day Card and gift. We hoped to have a nice dinner near the volcano and give the present to her there. As the day began it looked like a great idea but as it wore on - not an option.
Our trip to the Arenal Volcano took us through a cloud forest. It was raining and very cloudy. The roads were slippery and difficult with many pot holes. We finally made it to about 6 km. from the volcano but it was heavily clouded over. We drove over the Arenal Lake Bridge and had our first flat tire. One of those pot holes had a nice spike in it. At least we were on flat ground to make the tire change. The rain didn't help as we tried to figure out how the jack worked. A Costa Rican stopped and helped out. He was a mechanic and knew exactly how everything worked.
Tire changed we headed down the road towards a town at the other end of the lake. To our surprise this section of road would be the most hazardous to date. Huge pot holes and very large puddles awaited us. One section was total mud with ruts that made the going slow. Fortunately this one really muddy section was downhill. The unfortunate part was we could only proceed ahead. The road was very poor for another 15 km. Our chance of returning to the volcano were gone.
We did get to a better road finally and found a very nice restaurant to have our Mother's Day meal. It's not too often you can enjoy this special day in a tropical rain forest. We missed not having Lindsey (our daughter) with us. She didn't make the trip because of ice skating commitments.
Continuing down the road we finished our big Mothers Day loop. It rained most of the way back to San Jose. I needed to get near the VW dealer so we went back to the Holiday Inn. I was hoping this time they would actually do some work on the VW.
Date: May 13 - 22, 1996 (Costa Rica)
Chad's departure - May 13, 1996
Chad flew back to Canada early on the morning of the 13th. Kathy and I headed out to explore the northwestern coast of Costa Rica. We had talked to several people who mentioned Playa Flamingo and Playa Tamarindo as good destinations. We were hoping that the Guanacoste area would have drier weather as it had been raining quite a bit of the time. As we headed out we hoped Chad would be all right with his connecting flights in Houston and Newark, New Jersey. We had listed him as an unaccompanied minor - which turned out to be a good idea. His flight to Newark was canceled and his schedule rerouted. He had a 6 hour layover in Houston. Someone from the airlines stayed with him the whole time.
The beaches on the Guanacoste Peninsula are indeed beautiful. The two we stayed at (Playa Flamingo and Playa Tamarindo) were very nice and definitely worth visiting. Beautiful white sand on both beaches but Playa Tamarindo is more developed than Playa Flamingo. (The word Playa in Spanish means "beach"). The hotel in Playa Tamarindo (Captain Swiss) is very nice and has a beautiful courtyard and pool. Breakfast is included and the food excellent. They have monkeys that will come to the restaurant and entertain you while you eat. I would highly recommend this place. Hopefully the road to town will be improved soon! Right now it is full of pot holes.
Leaving Guanacoste Peninsulas we traveled towards the Jaco Beach/Quepos area of Costa Rica. We have a friend who owns a restaurant in Jaco Beach so we made that our first destination. Jaco Beach is definitely a surfer town in need of a few municipal improvements to make it attractive. Our friend's restaurant "La Piranha" was one of the nicest spots in town. Unfortunately our friend was in Canada so we missed seeing him. We did enjoy a nice meal at his restaurant.
Heading on to Quepos and Manuel Antonio Park was a real driving adventure. This section of road (50 kms.) takes the cake for the most continuous pot holes of any stretch of road. You just kept weaving from side to side to avoid the largest and deepest ones. The trip was worth it - Manuel Antonia Park has some of the most scenic beaches in the world!
We stayed at a hotel called El Parador which is located on a hilltop overlooking the ocean and the Park. This view is definitely one I would like to enjoy again. Frigates, pelicans and vultures soared overhead as we enjoyed a pool that had one edge that appeared to drop off the edge of a cliff (very impressive effect). Breakfast was included and was excellent. It was very relaxing and the view spectacular.
We hired a guide to take us into the Park. The wildlife we saw (and wouldn't have seen without our guide, Leo) was amazing. Iguanas, white faced monkeys, toucans, and many other beautiful birds. (Ilk) were everywhere. The beaches just perfect. This being a Park made everyone be very litter and environmentally conscious. If you get a chance - check this spot out. Next to Lake Atitlan in Guatemala - this is my second "must see" in Central America. We stayed an extra day to enjoy the improved weather and sun.
We returned to San Jose to complete arrangements for storing the VW and to head home. The company I found was a large international moving company that would complete the necessary paperwork while I was gone (5 months) and safely store the VW indoors. Everything went well and we headed home rested and tanned.
Posts from this trip.
What lied ahead of me was 1,100 kms of grueling and hot driving. The road ahead was through the Atacama Desert - one of the driest place on the earth. The landscape looked baked and tortured from the heat. Inside the van it was 105 degrees F (40 degrees C). I didn't dare turn the air conditioner on for fear of taxing the engine any more than it already was.
