Starting at KM 82, the trek to Machu Picchu takes four days. Each day brings its own challenges and vivid memories. The hike is grueling - no doubt about that. Anyone over the age of 60 is required to submit a letter from their doctor stating they are physically capable of strenuous activity at high altitude. For safety reasons, the guides carry spare oxygen to assist anyone who experiences breathing problems. Our group of 11 people (everyone from North America except for one retired teacher from Japan) gathered for our group picture at the start - mostly thinking this would be a walk in the park….
Inca Trail Porters
The first amazing thing about the trip is not the view up into the mountains you will be hiking - but the Portors who have gathered some of your personal gear and all the camping equipment and food we will need for the next four days. Their packs look huge even though they have a weight limit of 44 pounds (20kg). By law they receive $15/day and will be part of the tips at the end. These young and older men come from villages in the mountains so altitude doesn't seem to effect them. Working as porters can provide them a better income then farming. Many have just the most simple of sandals on their feet. They literally run ahead of you to set up a lunch site or campsite for the night. Everything is all set for your arrival - amazing.
We set a good pace as our guide Valentin referred to us as his “Pumas” Our first stop was at an Inca ruin. A good chance to catch our breath and get one of many Inca History lessons to come. The first day we came across a few villages and had an opportunity to see how the Peruvians lived. By the second day the terrain became more difficult, and the only people we saw were porters, guides, and fellow hikers.
Camp Site With A View
If there was any thought about why we were doing this hike - the views from our first camp site settled that quickly.
The porters had pitched our tents and set up the food tent well before we got there. We camped by the edge of a small village - with a spectacular view of the Andes Mountains. Everyone was in good spirits and seemed to handle the first days hike without too much difficulty. In the back of my mind I kept remembering our guides speech about the first day being the easiest one by far.
Corn Beer
Along the way we noticed a few huts had a pole with a red cloth attached to it. When I asked Valentin what this meant, he said that the women in these huts were making Corn Beer. Porters or other villagers could stop in to enjoy a drink. In the village we stayed at for our first night - there was one of these huts and several of our porters were there enjoying a cup of Corn Beer.
Valentin looked at me a little strangely when I asked him if he could take Paul and I to this hut. OK he said and my first and probably last experience with Peruvian Corn Beer was about to happen. The village hut were the Corn Beer was being sold had dirt floors with roosters and guine pigs walking around freely. In the corner the Corn Beer was brewing in a plastic container. In spite of what would be considered very sketchy sanitation procedures, we jumped in and ordered two large glasses of the best in the house.
The taste was not great and so different from anything I had drank before. I soon realized a large glass would be hard to finish. We chatted and watched the porters enjoying their drinks while roosters and guine pigs walked around in front of us. Soon we left with our drinks in hand. I hoped I could pass some of the Corn Beer on to other members of our hiking group. I tried - but to no avail. I asked another guide if he would be interested, he said no - and told me that the Corn Beer is still fermenting when you drink it and will continue fermenting for quite awhile in my stomach. He was right - every meal after the Corn Beer gave me a pretty serous case of indigestion. Lesson learned - whats good for a porter may not be good for you !!
Posts from this trip.
After breakfast, around 8:00 am we re-start our walk from our camp to Ayapata valley, it takes around 1 hour followed by a soft uphill climb through woods and along a stream (3,300 m / 10,824 ft) Today is our great challenge day but with plenty of time to enjoy, it is the biggest climb of our hike, strenuous because you gain 1,200 meters in elevation planned in 2 stages, but your are rewarded with spectacular views up the mountain.
After breakfast, around 7:00 am. The path climbs very steeply from Pacaymayo camp in a well preserved paved path –Camino Inca and takes 1 hour to reach the ruins at Runcuracay, a circular structure with a rectangular outbuildings perched on the edge of the valley, an old Inca -tambo where chaskis rested, guard post, lookout point or a ritual building, the site is best viewed from higher up the path. The second pass (3,950 m / 12,956 ft) called as well as Abra de Runcuracay, is another hour up, beyond a series of false summits and at the top of a series of steep staircases.
We will get up very early -around 4:00 am -to get to Inti Punku (the Sun Gate), overlooking Machu Picchu for the first rays of the sunrise. Your hope is that it is sunny morning not foggy. Unfortunately it was fogged in for us. This will be a hike of 1-2 hours, with significant upward stretches in the last half. You will be hiking in darkness for one hour, so a head lamp is strongly recommended please follow instructions of your guides and watch out your steps.