People tend to have memories they associate with milestones in their lives. For me, one memory I will always recall is hiking Wainwright's Coast to Coast trail across England, on my 60th Birthday. It is an amazing hike that takes you through some of England's most scenic and historic countryside. Beautiful yes, but challenging too. The trails varied terrain and geography, accompanied by the predominately wet English climate, make for some days where you feel pretty "shattered". I learned this word from a British friend of mine. It means you feel pretty darn "beat up". Those days were quickly forgotton as the Innkeepers along the trail knew how to lift up your spirits and get you going for your next days hike.
The following posts will take you through this amazing hike that Kathy and I enjoyed. Yes 192 miles may seem like a long way to hike, but when you divide it into smaller sections and these sections are so different and interesting - the hike ends almost too quickly.
Posts from this trip.
This is Wainwright’s C2C path, not trail. I think of a trail as a fairly flat manicured walkway. We are embarking on something completely different. The majority of the 192 miles across England will be on 16” rutted out pathways filled with mud, sheep/cattle manure, smooth and sharp boulders, tree roots and running water.
What a welcome to our return to the C2C. This was the worst weather we have encountered and it actually hailed on us at the top of Nine Standards. Wind, rain, hail, mud and very low visibility made this day a real adventure. Relied on compass to find our way when we couldn’t find the path and visibility was only 75’ (25 meters). Great view when the sun is shining - so they say.
Just when I thought the scenery couldn’t get any more beautiful – along came this amazing section of our hike. The River Swale Valley is spectacular with vistas of old stone farm buildings, stone fences and sheep pastures. Nestled along the River Swale were two beautiful picturesque villages – Muker and Gunnerside.
Once we cleared the top of Cleveland Hill the view of Scarth Moor was spectacular. Walked for many hours in undulating hills covered in heather. Fourty six miles (75 kms) in two days - couldn’t wait for a cold pint at the Lion Inn in Blakey. Fourth highest pub in England , this is a truly classic countryside English pub.
As the crow flies our last section should have been 10 miles – but Wainwright (who the hike is named after) had other plans. The hike through Little Beck Preserve was like hiking through the Hobbits Middle Earth – and the extra circle around the coastal cliffs proved a fitting way to enter into Robin Hood’s Bay.
C2C hikers either carry a pebble or small vile of water from the start (St. Bees). I carried some Irish Sea water and poured it into the North Sea. Then you go to Wainwright’s Bar, which is at the waters edge, and have a very refreshing pint or two. Sign the log book and put down a few personal notes. We relaxed, enjoyed the view and watched for other people we met along the way finish their hike. Then we enjoyed fish and chips at a chip shop – the best fish and chips we ever had!