Second Leg
September 21, 2009
C2C - Kirkby Stephen to Keld - stayed at the Keld Lodge
Distance/Time - 21 kms /13 miles - 6 hours
Weather - light drizzle to start. As we climbed, heavy cloud cover with mizzle (mist and drizzle) at top of climb – very poor visibility. Windy with horizontal rain and hail!
Terrain - fairly steep climb along pathways to Nine Standards. Slippery paths as a steady mizzle and rain fell. Many bogs with mud and water made walking very difficult. Once through bogs, beautiful hike down the valley into Keld.
Notes
What a welcome to our return to the C2C. This was the worst weather we have encountered and it actually hailed on us at the top of Nine Standards. Wind, rain, hail, mud and very low visibility made this day a real adventure. Relied on compass to find our way when we couldn’t find the path and visibility was only 75’ (25 meters). Great view when the sun is shining . . . so they say. Beautiful scenery as hike finished in Keld.
Nine Standards are historical markers on the Hartley Fell which separates Cumbria and North Yorkshire. The nine large flat stoned markers are said to be built by the Romans over 1600 years ago - to look like troops to ward off invading armies from the north.
Posts from this trip.
This is Wainwright’s C2C path, not trail. I think of a trail as a fairly flat manicured walkway. We are embarking on something completely different. The majority of the 192 miles across England will be on 16” rutted out pathways filled with mud, sheep/cattle manure, smooth and sharp boulders, tree roots and running water.
Just when I thought the scenery couldn’t get any more beautiful – along came this amazing section of our hike. The River Swale Valley is spectacular with vistas of old stone farm buildings, stone fences and sheep pastures. Nestled along the River Swale were two beautiful picturesque villages – Muker and Gunnerside.
Once we cleared the top of Cleveland Hill the view of Scarth Moor was spectacular. Walked for many hours in undulating hills covered in heather. Fourty six miles (75 kms) in two days - couldn’t wait for a cold pint at the Lion Inn in Blakey. Fourth highest pub in England , this is a truly classic countryside English pub.
As the crow flies our last section should have been 10 miles – but Wainwright (who the hike is named after) had other plans. The hike through Little Beck Preserve was like hiking through the Hobbits Middle Earth – and the extra circle around the coastal cliffs proved a fitting way to enter into Robin Hood’s Bay.
C2C hikers either carry a pebble or small vile of water from the start (St. Bees). I carried some Irish Sea water and poured it into the North Sea. Then you go to Wainwright’s Bar, which is at the waters edge, and have a very refreshing pint or two. Sign the log book and put down a few personal notes. We relaxed, enjoyed the view and watched for other people we met along the way finish their hike. Then we enjoyed fish and chips at a chip shop – the best fish and chips we ever had!