COAST TO COAST - C2C
August 10, 2009
C2C - St. Bees village – stayed at Fairladies Barn B&B
Distance/Time – no hiking today, getting ready for tomorrow
Weather: rain off and on
Terrain – beautiful, rolling hills with dramatic cliffs along St. Bees Head. Looking out over the Irish Sea, you can see the Isle of Man. Impressive scenery for the start.
Notes
Arrived in St. Bees around noon. Could not check into our hotel yet so took the train back to Whitehaven for lunch. Back in St. Bees had a few pints at the Coast to Coast Bar and an excellent meat pie dinner. We did some final prep and packing. Getting anxious to put on our daypacks and get started.
August 11, 2009
C2C – St. Bees to Ennerdale Bridge - Fox and Hounds B&B
Distance/Time – 22.5 kms/14 miles – 6 ½ hours
Weather: mostly sunny and mild temperatures, finished last 40 minutes of hike in a steady rain.
Terrain – started on main beach and climbed up to St. Bees Head. Hiked north through sheep and cattle pastures enjoying beautiful coastal vistas. Turned east following open fields and country laneways/roads through several small villages. First strenuous climb up Dent Fell (hill) and steep grassy decent. Rolling hills to Ennerdale Bridge
Notes
Arrived wet and tired to the Fox and Hounds B&B and had a pint of ale in my hands within five minutes. As Tony, my new hiking friend would say “The first one never hit the sides”. One very important lesson learned in our first day of hiking. This is Wainwright’s C2C path, not trail. I think of a trail as a fairly flat manicured walkway. We are embarking on something completely different. The majority of the 192 miles across England will be on 16” rutted out pathways filled with mud, sheep/cattle manure, smooth and sharp boulders, tree roots and running water. This is all through mountains, valleys, pastures, fells (hills), moors, dales and bogs.
August 12, 2009
C2C – Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite - Scafell Hotel
Distance/Time – 22.5 kms/14 miles/ 7 ½ hours
Weather: partly cloudy and cool, low clouds and windy at top of climb to Loft Beck
Terrain – beautiful, boulder filled hike around Ennerdale water (lake) up to Black Sail Youth Hostel. Climb up to Loft Beck VERY steep and hard. Some big rock steps and lots of wet slate. Last 100 yards on loose boulders. Grassy at top with cairns (rock piles) to help us find the path down.
Notes
A challenging day for sure. The climb was referred to as a “death march" by friends who also did the C2C. Amazing views up top of Buttermere Lake and Haystacks –where Wainwright’s ashes were spread. Rosthwaite is a very quaint and pristine English lakes country village. Fish and chips at the pub with mushy peas (definitely not my favorite vegetable!).
Posts from this trip.
What a welcome to our return to the C2C. This was the worst weather we have encountered and it actually hailed on us at the top of Nine Standards. Wind, rain, hail, mud and very low visibility made this day a real adventure. Relied on compass to find our way when we couldn’t find the path and visibility was only 75’ (25 meters). Great view when the sun is shining - so they say.
As the crow flies our last section should have been 10 miles – but Wainwright (who the hike is named after) had other plans. The hike through Little Beck Preserve was like hiking through the Hobbits Middle Earth – and the extra circle around the coastal cliffs proved a fitting way to enter into Robin Hood’s Bay.
Just when I thought the scenery couldn’t get any more beautiful – along came this amazing section of our hike. The River Swale Valley is spectacular with vistas of old stone farm buildings, stone fences and sheep pastures. Nestled along the River Swale were two beautiful picturesque villages – Muker and Gunnerside.
C2C hikers either carry a pebble or small vile of water from the start (St. Bees). I carried some Irish Sea water and poured it into the North Sea. Then you go to Wainwright’s Bar, which is at the waters edge, and have a very refreshing pint or two. Sign the log book and put down a few personal notes. We relaxed, enjoyed the view and watched for other people we met along the way finish their hike. Then we enjoyed fish and chips at a chip shop – the best fish and chips we ever had!
Once we cleared the top of Cleveland Hill the view of Scarth Moor was spectacular. Walked for many hours in undulating hills covered in heather. Fourty six miles (75 kms) in two days - couldn’t wait for a cold pint at the Lion Inn in Blakey. Fourth highest pub in England , this is a truly classic countryside English pub.